Russia

That said, a rising urban middle class is steadily changing the makeup of post-Soviet Russia. When asked what they want for the future, many Russians speak of "having an easier life, being able to buy good things." Their dreams of prosperity are fueled by foreign movies and television programs, a crop of extravagant new Russian films and soap operas, commercials that seem to run nonstop and billboards on many a street corner advertising luxury goods. But, for many, even standard material goods remain out of reach. Although the economy is finally recovering from the 1998 devaluation of the ruble, millions don't have access to the country's wealth, while others buy luxurious property abroad.

Today's Russia is often exhilarating, sometimes ominous. Everyday life goes on amid a jumble of trial-and-error capitalism, glitzy casinos, billboard politics, czar mania, slick gangster-hangout restaurants and posh nightclubs. Although the situation now differs from that of the 1990s, when both careers and fabulous fortunes were made overnight (and lost as well), most Russians still rely on fortune and fate more than on law, state and order. Add to the mix a religious revival: Hundreds of renovated Russian Orthodox churches are offering services in urban centers, and thousands of worshippers make pilgrimages to the country's numerous monasteries and other sacred places.

Travelers haven't been affected directly by the country's turmoil or corruption. You'll find that the overall quality of hotels, restaurants and services -- although wildly variable -- is improving, many on par with western European institutions.

In any case, travelers should be flexible, tolerant and patient -- and aware of risks. Russia can be both an enthralling adventure and a tiring ordeal. For those willing to endure the risks and inconveniences, Russia is simply a fascinating place -- from the imperial beauty of Moscow and St. Petersburg to the bleakly romantic Siberian countryside.